How To Make Beaded Cluster Chain Mail Earrings
Contributed by Andrew Telesca

Beaded Cluster Earrings


Difficulty: Journeyman
Materials Needed:
(74) 20 gauge (.032") 1/8" ID Rings
(2) 18 gauge (.048") 7/32" ID Rings
(4) 4mm rounds beads (with 20-22 gauge (.032"-.025") hole)
(2) 1" pieces of 24 gauge wire (any material that goes with the rings)
(2) 1.5" pieces of 30-34 gauge wire (same note as above)
(2) 2" pieces of 21-22 gauge wire, same material as the 1/8" ID rings.
Tools Needed:
(2) Pairs of toothless needle nose pliers
(1) Pair of Round nose wire bending pliers
(1) Small wire cutters or nail clippers
Weave Knowledge Needed:
· European 4-1

Step One:
Weave a short 3 row band of European 4-1 from the 1/8" ID rings. This band should be 7 rings long in the middle row, and 6 rings long in either of the outside rows.

Step Two:
Create a triangle of European 4-1 off either side of band. The first row you add should be 5 rings long, followed by 4 rings, 3 rings, 2 rings, and then 1 ring. Leave the other side of the band alone for now.

Step Three:
Now, set the piece you just made aside while we prepare to place (saturn) the bead in the large ring at the top.
Take one of the two 1" pieces of 24 gauge wire, and, using the wire bending pliers, create a small loop on one end. The loops should have an ID just slightly large than .048" (18 gauge wire).

Step Four:
Next, string one of the 4mm beads onto the piece of 24 gauge wire, until it butts up against the loop. Open one of the 7/32" ID rings, and run it through the loop. Now, (and this is the tricky part) position the wire so that it lays over the widest part of the ring, loop on one side, straight wire on the other. Bend the wire opposite the loop 90 degrees over the edge of the ring. In the opposite direction of the previous loop.

Step Five:
Take the wire where the 90 degree bend is, and (using your wire bending pliers) create a loop just slightly larger than .048" (18 gauge wire). Make sure this loop goes in the opposite direction of the first one, and even them out so that they run parallel along the wire (see picture from step 6). Make sure the piece fits on your ring. If it doesn't, either adjust it or try again.

Step Six:
We now have to add a small coil on one side of the finding we made to position the bead where we want it. To do this, take one of your pieces of 30-34 gauge wire, and string one end through either of the loops about 1/4". Using 1 pair of needle nose pliers, clamp the wire to the loop. Now, take the other end of the wire in your other hand, and wrap it carefully around the finding. Wrap it until bead is close to the loop on the other side, but leave it a little bit of room. Now, snip the ends of the wire on both sides of the coil, and use your pliers to make sure the ends are coiled aroudn the finding and not sticking out.

Step Seven:
Find that piece of 4-1 you set aside earlier. You are going to take the 7/32" ID ring and run it through the first 3 rings in the top row of 6. Next, the end of the finding with the coil onto the 7/32" ID ring. String the 7/32" ID ring through the last three rings of that row, such that the finding is now trapped in the middle of the 6 rings. Place the other end of the finding onto the 7/32" ID ring. Close it. Add two more 1/8" ID rings onto the 7/32" ID ring, one on either side of the finding.

Step Eight:
Set the earring aside. Now, take one of the 2" pieces of 21-22 gauge wire and make a small loop in one end with the round nose pliers, the loop should have an ID of roughtly .06". Bend the wire back slightly with the round nose pliers so that the rest of the piece runs straight out from the loop.

Step Nine:
String one of the 4mm beads onto the piece of wire you just bent until it butts up against the loop. Position the peice in your hand such that your thumb is against the thin side of the loop, and the nail of your index finger is at the top of the bead. using your other hand, bend the wire back against your nail about 45 degrees. This should lock the bead in place, you might want to check and make sure it won't slide up past the bend. If it does, bend the wire back more, creating a sharper bend.

Step Ten:
Using the larger part of your round nose pliers, create the loop for the top of the ear wire. Cut end to an appropriate length, usually so that it comes down about 1/8" farther than the small loop. Take one 1/8" ID ring and run it through the two rings at the top of the earring, and the small loop of the earwire, such that when worn the coil on the finding is in the front. Repeat steps 1-10 to make the second earring.


© Andrew Telesca. All Rights Reserved.

About the Author

Andrew Telesca is the owner of Maile of the Dreamseeker.  His site offers hand crafted chainmail (chain mail) jewelry.  Tie chains, wallet chains, necklaces, bracelets, headdresses, pendants and more—in metals ranging from titanium to steel, silver to gold.

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